Tempting kebabs, fragrant biryani, and airy, cloud-like desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has forever been a food lovers' paradise, with residents and travelers equally celebrating its exquisite cuisine.
A Global Honor
In a recent announcement, Unesco designated it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – placing it on a prestigious group of international urban centers and sparking hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's exceptional food. With this designation, it joins a worldwide network of cities metropolises across over 100 countries committed to promoting "innovation as a catalyst of city development that is sustainable".
The recognition "stands as proof of its profound culinary traditions and lively food ecosystem," according to a official from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to earn a spot in this highly sought-after list of 70 cities worldwide.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The honor for this time-honored city is little surprise to its locals or dedicated food lovers. Many agree with the opinion that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO accolade, this cherished, chaotic, and vibrant city – the capital of India's largest state – is at last in the limelight for what has always defined its heart: an immense devotion for food.
"'What's for dinner, how will it be cooked' is a ongoing conversation from waking up until night in many homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are truly evaluated by the standard of food that is produced in your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The Nawabi City – as it's popularly called after its 18th and 19th-century affluent Muslim rulers – is renowned for its tender kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were created, refined, and elevated to sublime levels in their opulent kitchens.
These royal kitchens were hubs of culinary innovations, fusing Iranian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were fashioned. The story goes that the mutton galouti was invented to cater to an elderly nawab who had lost his teeth. His chefs ground the meat with raw papaya, saffron, and a blend of spices and made it so soft that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the most significant contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a low, leisurely heat, with the pot's lid securely closed with dough.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
In addition to the famous kebabs and biryani, the cooks also developed a vast array of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine doesn't just celebrates fresh harvests but also offers the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Virtually on countless corners, there are tiny kiosks and stalls – little-known gems that are extremely favored by the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, large gatherings start gathering from early morning at a famous tea stall to get a steaming cup of milky masala chai, presented in kulhads, along with pillowy soft buns covered in hand-churned white butter.
In the morning, one can visit a unpretentious joint operating in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was established, the place is still in great demand for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also presents remarkable treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert savored in the winter. The method of making it is intricate and demanding. The vendor whisks the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its amazing airy feel.
On crisp mornings, street vendors can be seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Some though express concern that their younger generation are reluctant to take up the craft.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has often said that the city's profound food legacy positions it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will materialize only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – influenced by family-run food businesses, from modest street carts to lively restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is hoped, will motivate more people around the world to explore these narratives and travel to the city to delight in the food wonders of Lucknow.
